In the mid-20th century, the mainstream acceptance of Black beauty standards in the United States was a gradual and often painful process. Black individuals faced immense pressure to conform to white beauty standards, especially those seeking entry into fashion and entertainment industries that catered primarily to white audiences. This journey began with a few trailblazers who managed to break through, making way for others to follow.
Helen Williams: The Pioneer of Black Models
One of the most significant figures in this journey was Helen Williams, a Black model who broke into the mainstream fashion industry. Her elegant appearance, which many thought had more in common with white beauty standards, helped her cross over into white-dominated markets. Williams was discovered in Philadelphia, and her skin color and features set her apart from the typical Black models of the time. She was praised for her elegance, grace, and the “white-like” features that were often associated with beauty in that era, such as a smaller nose and thinner lips, contrasting with what were considered more traditional Black features.
Williams initially gained fame in Black magazines, featuring in advertisements for cigarettes and beverages. However, her fame quickly spread beyond these publications as people became intrigued by her look, leading her to Paris, where she received a warm reception. There, she participated in fashion shows, and the response from the European public was overwhelmingly positive. Paris, often regarded as more progressive in terms of fashion, embraced her beauty, providing her with opportunities she may not have found in the United States at the time.
Her success in Europe, particularly Paris, paved the way for her return to the American fashion industry, where white magazines began to take notice. Williams’ acceptance by these publications was a turning point, as it helped dismantle some of the rigid racial barriers in fashion. Soon after, other Black models followed in her footsteps, with Williams opening the door for them in the world of high fashion, cosmetics, and advertisements.
Motown: Bringing Black Artists to White Audiences
While the fashion world was slowly coming around to the idea of Black beauty, a similar revolution was happening in the music industry. In Detroit, a young businessman named Berry Gordy launched a record label that would change the face of American music: Motown. Gordy’s goal was to take Black artists and present them in a way that would appeal to the white teenage market, which had so far been dominated by white artists like Bill Haley, the Everly Brothers, and Buddy Holly.
Although Black artists like Chuck Berry and Little Richard had found success with white audiences, none had yet achieved blanket appeal. Gordy realized that in order to capture the white teenage market, he would need to mold his Black artists into performers who could cross over into the mainstream. This required not just great music but also an image makeover.
One of Gordy’s early experiments was with George Clinton and the Parliaments. The image of coolness and glamour was essential to their success. During this time, Black artists were encouraged to present themselves in ways that would be perceived as acceptable to white audiences. This sometimes meant adopting certain white beauty ideals, such as lighter skin tones or slimmer body types, and modifying aspects of Black culture to be more palatable to white audiences.
The Supreme Transformation
One of Gordy’s most significant achievements in this regard was transforming the Supremes, a group of three Black girls, into international icons. To achieve this, the Supremes had to adopt a more polished, glamorous look that would appeal to mainstream America. They enhanced their figures, particularly their busts, to appear more mature and sexy, despite being just teenagers. In a humorous moment, Diana Ross recalls how someone once stuck a pin in her butt after she had padded her figure with false booties to appear curvier.
At Motown, artists were not only taught how to sing but also how to present themselves. Gordy employed Maxine Powell, who ran the Motown Artist Development Department, to teach etiquette and manners to his artists. Powell trained the artists in everything from posture to getting in and out of cars with grace. This level of attention to detail ensured that Motown artists would be accepted not only in music venues but also in white homes and before important figures like the president.
Redefining Beauty and Success
Ultimately, what Gordy accomplished with Motown was nothing short of revolutionary. By packaging Black artists with a white beauty ideal and selling them back to white audiences, he managed to break down racial barriers in the music industry. The artists at Motown were taught to conform to white standards of beauty and elegance, but they also made these standards their own, showcasing them on a global stage.
The success of artists like the Supremes and models like Helen Williams demonstrated that Black beauty and talent could thrive in mainstream markets, even if it required adapting to existing norms. The contributions of these early pioneers laid the foundation for future generations of Black artists and models, who would go on to embrace their heritage and redefine what it meant to be beautiful and successful in America.